There are some lovely walks on Salina, and Malfa is well placed for exploring the whole island. When I was here three years ago, I made a couple of day trips from Lipari and decided then that the next time I came to the islands I'd stay on Salina. I did a couple of walks then, and definitely wanted more!
The walk from Santa Marina to Malfa takes about an hour and a half (at least, down to my house on the harbour). On the way there are some spectacular rock formations, including layers of volcanic deposits that are banded in red and black. At this time of year, the spring flowers are out, and the whole island is green and fresh. I particularly like the capers, which grow wild everywhere and have beautiful flowers. Capers are a speciality of the islands, and figure a lot in local dishes in the restaurants.
Another lovely walk is to the village of Pollara, on the west side of the island. From Malfa, the road climbs fairly gently up to a point high above the village, then drops down steeply into what is the caldera of the last eruption of the volcano, apparently about 13,000 years ago. Pollara was the setting for some of the film 'Il Postino' (the Postman), which was a big hit a few years ago. The beach was one of the locations, and again it is quite spectacular with beautiful cliffs. Apparently it looks similar to parts of Hawaii, which is not surprising really as the islands are all volcanic.
There is another long walk up to the Valdichiesa and down to the port on the south side of the island, Rinella. At Valdichiesa there is a church called Santuario della Madonna del Terzito, dating from the 16th Century and a centre for pilgrimages.
Tuesday, 25 May 2010
Malfa
Malfa is a pleasant little town, perched above the sea on a shelf at the base of the main mountains on the island, with some spectacular cliffs down to my little harbour of Scalo Galera and to the stony beach at Punta di Scario. I chose to stay at Malfa because it's the biggest town on the island, and centrally located making it a good base for walks throughout the island. But even though it is the biggest town (it's a small village really, though it is a 'comune' in its own right) it is very quiet, especially early on in my stay. There are a few shops, including a good butcher and a fantastic baker, a small supermarket, a greengrocer and a couple of general stores, and a few restaurants and hotels. I suspect it will get a lot busier as the season progresses, and I bet it's very lively in high summer when all the hotels and holiday homes will be full. With hindsight, I think I would have preferred to have stayed in the port of Santa Marina, which seems a bit livelier, though still very peaceful. At least there it would be pleasant to wander down and watch the ferries and hydrofoils come and go.
My House
The house is lovely. It's quite small, but perfect for me. I have a terrace looking out onto the harbour, which is called Scalo Galera. And I can see the islands of Panarea and Stromboli. Stromboli is an active volcano, and has been for several thousand years, and I can clearly see the smoke coming from the craters at the top. I chose the house 'blind', relying on the advert at the lettings agency (Eoliando in Lipari). The pictures didn't do it justice. The big surprise was the view of the neighbouring cliffs, which are quite stunning, especially at sunset when the sun picks up the orange of the rocks.
The house was a bit further from the centre of Malfa than I imagined, and it's a fairly steep climb up. All the furniture comes from IKEA, which seems to be the case for a lot of holiday lets in Europe (I've stayed in apartments furnished from IKEA in Budapest, Barcelona and on Gran Canaria and Tenerife). In this case, the nearest store is in Salerno on the Italian mainland, so it's quite a trip to get stuff from there.
As the harbour faces north, it gets less sun than other parts of the island. The terrace is in full sun in the morning, but loses it in the afternoon. As the summer progresses, it comes back again in late afternoon. And in high summer I suspect the northern aspect makes it a good deal cooler and pleasant. It was certainly a bit cool sometimes in the evening.
The house was a bit further from the centre of Malfa than I imagined, and it's a fairly steep climb up. All the furniture comes from IKEA, which seems to be the case for a lot of holiday lets in Europe (I've stayed in apartments furnished from IKEA in Budapest, Barcelona and on Gran Canaria and Tenerife). In this case, the nearest store is in Salerno on the Italian mainland, so it's quite a trip to get stuff from there.
As the harbour faces north, it gets less sun than other parts of the island. The terrace is in full sun in the morning, but loses it in the afternoon. As the summer progresses, it comes back again in late afternoon. And in high summer I suspect the northern aspect makes it a good deal cooler and pleasant. It was certainly a bit cool sometimes in the evening.
Sunday, 2 May 2010
Night train to Sicily
I was getting the night train again, this time the 22.50 from Campo di Marte station (to the east of central Florence) to the port of Milazzo in Sicily. This train had come from Venice via Bologna, and when I got into my compartment the other people were already in bed so I was as quiet as I could be so as not to disturb them. Again, not a brilliant night's sleep on the train.
When I woke up properly at about 7am, we were most definitely in the South. The landscape is much drier and harsher than Tuscany, and the towns we passed looked poorer and less cared for. We were late again, and arrived at the train-ferry terminal of Villa San Giovanni an hour late. Here the train was divided up; one portion carried on down to Reggio di Calabria right at the 'toe' of the Italian boot. The rest of it was shunted onto the train-ferry to Messina. This is always interesting, and you can go 'up top' once the train is secure and get some fresh air and see the spectacular views along the Strait of Messina. On a clear day (which this wasn't particularly) you can see Etna, which dominates this corner of Sicily.
The ferry only takes about 25 minutes, then the train is shunted off and divided again, one half (which I was on) heading along the north coast towards Palermo, the other along the east coast towards Catania and Siracusa. They must allow a fair bit of 'slack' time at Messina, because as we left we were now only 30 minutes late. I had considered getting off the train at Villa San Giovanni to get on the ferry as a passenger and then take a bus from Messina to the port at Milazzo, but in the end decided against it because I thought we might make up some time, as indeed we did.
From Milazzo station, I took a local bus into the town (the station is about 3km from the port) and bought my hydrofoil ticket to Salina. There are two companies that operate the hydrofoils from Milazzo to the Aeolians, Ustica and Siremar. Both have websites with timetable information – the Ustica one is much more user-friendly. I'd checked earlier and was aiming for the 13.15 departure with Siremar, but shortly before my departure from Britain this seemed to have vanished from the schedule, so I was unsure if it was running or not. When I got to Milazzo, it seemed that it was running, but for Salina I needed to change at Lipari.
When I woke up properly at about 7am, we were most definitely in the South. The landscape is much drier and harsher than Tuscany, and the towns we passed looked poorer and less cared for. We were late again, and arrived at the train-ferry terminal of Villa San Giovanni an hour late. Here the train was divided up; one portion carried on down to Reggio di Calabria right at the 'toe' of the Italian boot. The rest of it was shunted onto the train-ferry to Messina. This is always interesting, and you can go 'up top' once the train is secure and get some fresh air and see the spectacular views along the Strait of Messina. On a clear day (which this wasn't particularly) you can see Etna, which dominates this corner of Sicily.
The ferry only takes about 25 minutes, then the train is shunted off and divided again, one half (which I was on) heading along the north coast towards Palermo, the other along the east coast towards Catania and Siracusa. They must allow a fair bit of 'slack' time at Messina, because as we left we were now only 30 minutes late. I had considered getting off the train at Villa San Giovanni to get on the ferry as a passenger and then take a bus from Messina to the port at Milazzo, but in the end decided against it because I thought we might make up some time, as indeed we did.
From Milazzo station, I took a local bus into the town (the station is about 3km from the port) and bought my hydrofoil ticket to Salina. There are two companies that operate the hydrofoils from Milazzo to the Aeolians, Ustica and Siremar. Both have websites with timetable information – the Ustica one is much more user-friendly. I'd checked earlier and was aiming for the 13.15 departure with Siremar, but shortly before my departure from Britain this seemed to have vanished from the schedule, so I was unsure if it was running or not. When I got to Milazzo, it seemed that it was running, but for Salina I needed to change at Lipari.
More Lucca
Next morning, I packed up and left my bag at the guest house and had until evening to explore Lucca more thoroughly. It was a beautiful day; after the cold winter we'd had at home it was great to feel some warmth from the sun and to spend some time out in the open just appreciating it.
The old city of Lucca is quite compact, and during the day I managed to explore most of it. There is a distinct style of architecture in the churches (known as Luccan-Pisan Romanesque) which I liked a lot. In general I'm a fan of Romanesque architecture, based on the Roman round arch rather than the Gothic pointed arch. In Britain it is usually called Norman. My favourite Luccan church was San Michele in Foro, which has an extravagant west front and a statue of the Archangel Michael perched above it; it's in my favourite piazza as well.
In the evening I went back to fetch my bag from the guest house, and then trudged back to the station to catch a train for Florence.
The old city of Lucca is quite compact, and during the day I managed to explore most of it. There is a distinct style of architecture in the churches (known as Luccan-Pisan Romanesque) which I liked a lot. In general I'm a fan of Romanesque architecture, based on the Roman round arch rather than the Gothic pointed arch. In Britain it is usually called Norman. My favourite Luccan church was San Michele in Foro, which has an extravagant west front and a statue of the Archangel Michael perched above it; it's in my favourite piazza as well.
In the evening I went back to fetch my bag from the guest house, and then trudged back to the station to catch a train for Florence.
Saturday, 24 April 2010
Lucca
Lucca is now one of my favourite small cities in the whole world. After the crowds and the soullessness of Florence (I bet most of the visitors queueing for the Uffizi had no real idea why they were there – or is that me just being judgmental?) Lucca was a revelation as to just how perfect a Renaissance city could be.
From the station, you enter the city through its immense walls and then wander through streets into piazzas and it's all harmonious and lovely. I was booked into a guest house, the San Frediano, and found it easily enough just off the main shopping street, the Via Filungo. I had thought of taking a siesta, but having tasted a sample of the city in the walk from the station I wanted more, so after a shower and change I set out and wandered aimlessly for a couple of hours, admiring everything. Such a difference from Florence, the pace was much slower, the numbers of tourists less oppressive and the atmosphere much more comfortable. I had dinner in a restaurant a couple of doors from where I was staying. At 7pm, I was the only person in the place at first, but I was hungry, wanted an early night and couldn't wait any more. It was a local place serving Tuscan food – I had pasta made from chestnut flour as a starter and rabbit (coniglio alla Lucchese) as a main course. I can recommend it!
From the station, you enter the city through its immense walls and then wander through streets into piazzas and it's all harmonious and lovely. I was booked into a guest house, the San Frediano, and found it easily enough just off the main shopping street, the Via Filungo. I had thought of taking a siesta, but having tasted a sample of the city in the walk from the station I wanted more, so after a shower and change I set out and wandered aimlessly for a couple of hours, admiring everything. Such a difference from Florence, the pace was much slower, the numbers of tourists less oppressive and the atmosphere much more comfortable. I had dinner in a restaurant a couple of doors from where I was staying. At 7pm, I was the only person in the place at first, but I was hungry, wanted an early night and couldn't wait any more. It was a local place serving Tuscan food – I had pasta made from chestnut flour as a starter and rabbit (coniglio alla Lucchese) as a main course. I can recommend it!
Florence
And so we arrived in Florence two and a quarter hours late, at 9.30 instead of 7.15. No matter, things in Italy have a habit of working out differently, and I was in no hurry at this stage. I dumped my bag in the left luggage, got a bite to eat in the station and set off for a couple of hours wandering around the world's favourite cultural icon.
And it is staggering! I really only touched the surface but I have to say that it was too much. The crowds queueing to get into the Duomo, wandering around the Piazza della Signoria and across the Ponte Vecchio. Busy streets, narrow pavements... It didn't help that I was tired from the journey. Funnily enough, one of my favourite buildings in Florence is its station, Santa Maria Novella, built in a modernist style during the fascist era (a style that was not in favour with the regime). Definitely one of the world's great stations. Anyway, I duly wandered around the Piazza del Duomo, saw Ghiberti's famous Baptistery doors (or at least the replicas – the originals were moved from their home to a museum a while ago), Orsanmichele, the Piazza della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio, and the San Lorenzo market. It seemed that every corner I turned, there was something I had studied as part of my OU degree course. A bit footsore, I then had a bit of lunch, retrieved my bags from left luggage and got on the train to Lucca.
And it is staggering! I really only touched the surface but I have to say that it was too much. The crowds queueing to get into the Duomo, wandering around the Piazza della Signoria and across the Ponte Vecchio. Busy streets, narrow pavements... It didn't help that I was tired from the journey. Funnily enough, one of my favourite buildings in Florence is its station, Santa Maria Novella, built in a modernist style during the fascist era (a style that was not in favour with the regime). Definitely one of the world's great stations. Anyway, I duly wandered around the Piazza del Duomo, saw Ghiberti's famous Baptistery doors (or at least the replicas – the originals were moved from their home to a museum a while ago), Orsanmichele, the Piazza della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio, and the San Lorenzo market. It seemed that every corner I turned, there was something I had studied as part of my OU degree course. A bit footsore, I then had a bit of lunch, retrieved my bags from left luggage and got on the train to Lucca.
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